Everyone needs a local, right? That’s ‘local’ as in ‘local place to hang out after work, be a little too loud, maybe get kicked out by the manager but it’s cool because he’s your buddy’. Well, they’re never going to let you make Apple Pan your local (old men can’t break up skank-fights for shit), so why not stumble over to The Six Restaurant on Pico Blvd. instead?
Just a hambone’s throw from one of LA’s most-discussed burger spots, The Six is one of those adolescent beef and bun spots that are starting to settle in nicely around Los Angeles. After all, it’s got the non-food ingredients for success: backing from some actual restauranteurs, a decent beer list, and admittedly cool ambiance. Despite some early issues (long waits – even with reservations – have consistently been a discussion topic on review sites) and a few kitchen hiccups, a recent return to The Six changed my opinion of their burger… for the most part.
While the night’s griddle work is mostly done by 9pm, The Six was nice enough to throw down a few patties on a recent late Tuesday night in order to keep me fed. The namesake Six Burger, ordered as always medium rare, emerged from the back with a nice, crisp char and pink center. Although verging closer to medium, the beef maintained plenty of juice throughout. In addition, it is ground coarsely and well-dosed with salt. Topped with onion rings (tempura fried?), a slice of tomato, butter lettuce and blue cheese, the final product would verge on falling over if it weren’t for the knife stuck down the middle. The butter lettuce, surprisingly, was a real highlight: crisp and fresh, it delivered on smoothness without the sometimes-bitterness of less quality leaves. The rest of the concoction, however, was hit and miss. The onion rings provided a decent crunch but didn’t add much zing, while the tomato was a complete non-factor. It’s important to note that we’re in the LA version of winter, so you can’t really fault these guys for having trouble finding a tomato that doesn’t suck. And while the bun looks formidable, it’s really just a pliant puppy, squishing down nicely to accommodate the burger’s girth (ewww). The real offender with the Six Burger is the heavy-handed dollop of blue cheese, which immediately overtook most of the otherwise delightful flavors. In nearly every case, blue cheese is simply too strong a choice for a burger pairing. The Six is certainly no exception.
The Six Restaurant is still a great location for decent bites (they’ve got a pretty extensive menu, with each section consisting of six possibilities) and good beer, especially if you’re in the neighborhood. And ESPECIALLY if you can’t muster up the courage to fight for counter space at Apple Pan.
The Six Restaurant
10668 West Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA